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A Door to Scenic Splendor

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Written by Rick Karlin
Thursday, 17 June 2010 17:56

Whether your idea of a vacation includes scenic hikes, gallery hopping, fine dining or snuggling with someone special in a quaint bed and breakfast, Wisconsin's Door County has something for you. This picturesque peninsula also offers a rare diversity of natural beauty, from the rocky bluffs on Lake Michigan to the serene beaches stretching along Green Bay.

Outdoorsy types will want to check out Cave Point County Park. Part of Whitefish Dunes State Park, it features limestone sea caves formed by Lake Michigan's relentless pounding against the bluffs. The 19-acre park has a tranquil half-mile hiking trail and is a haven for a variety of birds.

Take the Washington Island Ferry for the half-hour trip across Death's Door Straits to Washington Island, where you can spend an entire day exploring the great outdoors. Challenge yourself by climbing the 184 steps to the top of the tower in Mountain Park. On a clear day, you'll have a 360-degree view that includes beautiful Washington Island, Escanaba, Mich., and Rock and St. Martin Islands.

Schoolhouse Beach is a sheltered harbor covered with smooth, white stones - perfect for a relaxing picnic lunch. Ridges Sanctuary in Baileys Harbor is a pristine 1,200-acre nature preserve featuring native wildflowers along five miles of rustic trails and bridges.

Peninsula State Park, one of the state's most popular, offers Segway and bike tours of 3,762 acres of trails. In the summer there is great camping, an 18-hole golf course (one of many in Door County), swimming areas and boat rentals. Winter amenities include groomed ski touring, snowmobiling and sledding. Year-round visits to the observation tower and tours through Eagle Bluff Lighthouse offer spectacular vistas.

Artsy folks can choose between numerous galleries, art lectures and hands-on activities. In fact, at Hands On Art Studio in Fish Creek, you can paint your own ceramics, glassware, T-shirts or birdhouses. For more advanced work, experiment with fused glass, throw a pot or make a project in the metal studio. Check out the colorful water tower covered with tiles and perhaps add one of your own. The $4 cost for the tile is donated to local animal shelters and humane societies. The studio's owners Karon and Cy are animal lovers who enjoy showing off their menagerie of rescued animals, from llamas to pygmy goats.

Washington Island Art and Nature Center occupies an old schoolhouse and features works of local artists, including watercolors, prints, jewelry and photography. The nature room has many displays, including an observation beehive and a 180-gallon freshwater fish exhibit. The Peninsula School of Art offers workshops and classes in painting, drawing, pottery, jewelry or photography. The Francis Hardy Center for the Arts also offers artist workshops, providing educational opportunities for adults and children to observe and learn from professionals.

For those who prefer to appreciate art rather than create it, there are plenty of opportunities to gallery hop/shop. Stop in at Fine Line Designs on Ephraim's north end, which features original painting, sculpture and custom wood furnishings; stone, metal, wood and glass sculpture; and fiber art, deep in color and texture. Another great stop is the Potter Wheel Gallery in Fish Creek, a true Door County landmark.

As early as the 1930s, performers began discovering in Door County an environment that encourages creativity. Today, nearly a dozen performing arts organizations thrive on the peninsula. Sit under the stars at the American Folklore Theatre or sit inside the concert barn at the Birch Creek Music Performance Center. Take in a play at the secluded Peninsula Players Theatre. Arrive an hour before the show to see the sun setting over the waters of Green Bay or stroll the cedar-lined shore.

The Door Community Auditorium features professional and community programming and each August serves as the home of the Peninsula Music Festival, featuring renowned musicians in a three-week celebration of world class symphonic music. Door Shakespeare brings theater alive outdoors in repertory with classical comedies, not only by Shakespeare but also Wilde, Rostand, Sheridan and Moliere.

Foodies will find Door County anything but provincial. Sure there are plenty of places offering down-home fare, but there also are world-class gourmet restaurants, purveyors and classes. At Stone's Throw Winery, wine and chocolate tasting sessions are held throughout the day on weekends. The winery also offers such special events as concerts under the stars and occasional dinners, such as the popular lobster boil.

At Orchard Country Winery in Fish Creek, take a guided tour of the grounds or browse through the shop filled with fine gifts and foods. Depending on the season, you may also choose to pick fresh fruit or take advantage of the unique "Trolley Progressive Dinner." The five-hour event includes a ride in a trolley to one location for appetizers and wine (and usually a fun ice-breaking activity). After the appetizer course, guests hop on the trolley to head for dinner at one of Door County's many restaurants. After dinner, another trolley ride heads to a dessert venue and then returns the riders back to the winery. It sounds a little corny, but we had a great time, especially with the rowdy bachelorette party in our group.

Bistro 42, located inside the Door Peninsula Winery, offers terrific fire-baked pizzas from the stone hearth oven, which pair nicely with the all-natural fruit wines offered. For upscale French Mediterranean food, Trio, in Egg Harbor, is the place to go.

A nice daytime interlude can be had at Schopf's Hilltop Dairy. Learn a little about the Wisconsin dairy industry and experience it first-hand by first watching the milking operations and then milking Cookie the cow yourself! Celebrate your experience by enjoying some of the more than 30 flavors of homemade ice cream made on premises.

Curt's Spice Co. & Oilerie claims to be the nation's largest single store retailer of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The tiny retail space is lined with 22 stainless steel tanks of flavored and infused oils and vinegars, all waiting to be sampled.

A trip to Door County isn't complete without attending a fish boil featuring whitefish caught by local fishermen and cooked outdoors over an open fire, just as it was 100 years ago by the area's Scandinavian settlers.

But I was far more impressed by Al Johnson's in Sister Bay. Not only was the house specialty - Swedish pancakes with lingonberries - delicious, but there were live goats grazing on the restaurant's sod-covered roof. Another quaint spot is Wilson's Ice Cream Parlor, with its old-fashioned soda fountain and ice cream specialties, home-brewed draft root beer, flame-broiled burgers and juke boxes that play all the oldies.

For a little hands-on culinary fun, check out The Washington Hotel on Washington Island, where you can learn about locally grown ingredients while improving your culinary skills.

For general sightseeing, board an old Chicago Fire Boat and get an overall picture of Door County from the water. For land-based learning opportunities, enjoy the Door County Historical Museum, named the best small museum in the Midwest by the Chicago Tribune. Continue your education by heading across the bridge to the Door County Maritime Museum in Sturgeon Bay, which offers docent-guided tours of exhibits that span the nautical history of Door County, from early American Indian canoes to post-World War II bulk carriers.

Continuing on the nautical theme, check out the Canal Station Pier. The fully operational U.S. Coast Guard station, built in 1882 and automated in 1972, is located at the Lake Michigan end of the Sturgeon Bay ship canal. Cana Island Lighthouse, Door County's most recognizable lighthouse and landmark, allows a self-guided tour. Wander through the oil room and keeper's house; then climb the stairs to the top for a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. Peruse the grounds and find the historical marker for the shipwreck of the Frank O'Conner, one of the largest wooden ships ever built.

There's no way to take in everything in one visit, so plan on returning many times as many folks do. While there are plenty of budget-minded hotels and motels, to get the full Door County experience you should opt for a stay at one of the many B&B and small inns. Steve and Sue Sherman, owners of the sparkling clean Village Green Lodge in Ephraim, offer great hospitality and wonderful breakfasts in an adults-only environment. This gay-friendly inn is quiet and just steps from the waterfront. If you prefer to stay at a gay-owned spot, check out the Chanticleer guesthouse in Sturgeon Bay or The Inn at Windmill Farm in Bailey's Harbor.